Nov. 27, Tue.
Abundant sea Sanriku Coast
JJ revisits Kesennuma
local specialties
at the local inn
The Sanriku Coast of Tohoku is famous for its beauty and its abundance of premium seafood. Over a year and half has passed since this scenic coastal area was hit by the devastating earthquake and tsunami. Now, it's gradually recovering as a tourist destination. Kesennuma is one of the most important fishing ports on the Sanriku Coast. Three years ago, JJ visited the Kesennuma area. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, he goes back to see some of the people he met on his previous visit. He also heads further north, traveling by local bus. He sees how life has changed for people along the Sanriku Coast - and he samples some of the wonderful shellfish and other delectable seafood.
Kesennuma fish market
If you go to the market early in the morning, you can see the fish being landed and watch the bidding procedure. There is an observation deck for visitors on the 2nd floor.
"Sakana no eki" market, Kesennuma
This new market building, which opened recently, contains various shops selling fresh fish, vegetables and meat. The seafood stalls offer fresh seafood plates at unbeatable prices.
http://sakananoeki.com/open.php (Japanese only)
Oyster House, Karakuwa Peninsula
The restaurant stands right on the waterfront, overlooking the bay. Open on Saturday and Sunday (only in the oyster harvest season).
Open 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Price: 1500 yen per 15 oysters
Reservations required.
Kanyo resort hotel, Kesennuma
The hotel sits on a hill overlooking the city. Because many hotels and local inns remain closed, it's best to make reservations early.
http://www.kkanyo.jp/ (Japanese only)
"Yatai-Mura" Restaurant Village, Kesennuma
This cluster of temporary restaurants was set up by poeple who survived the tsunami. They serve seafood and other local specialties. This is a good place to meet various people, locals, people in the fishing industry, as well as tourists.
http://www.fukko-yatai.com/ (Japanese only)
Houraikan inn, Kamaishi
This popular inn serves local specialties using ingredients from the area. It has a wonderful location overlooking the beach. It is advisable to reserve well in advance.
http://houraikan.jp/ (Japanese only)
English Home page for Sanriku
- Iwate Prefecture web site
http://www.pref.iwate.jp/info.rbz?ik=1&nd=4334
- Miyagi Prefecture web stie
http://www.pref.miyagi.jp/kankou/en/index.htm
Access Map
Access:
The towns and cities along the Sanriku Coast of Miyagi and Iwate can be accessed by train and bus.
Date :
Oct. 20 - Oct. 24, 2012
Traveler :
JJ, musician (UK)
My trip to the Sanriku coastline was my first since the earthquake and tsunami. Faced with such extraordinary adversity, it was incredible to me to see how warm and friendly the people there remain. Everyone was smiles. Everyone was moving forward.
I will never forget the owner of the hotel explaining to me that she didn't think about herself. She thought of helping others first, and if everyone does that, eventually the cycle will return to her. What a superb way to view life! And I will certainly never forget the elderly lady I met in her boat at 6am with her crates of freshly caught fish. This lady lost her daughter, her home, her original boat and her livelihood. But she had not lost her smile. "I have no time to waste! I have to carry on!" she said to me, with a huge smile! This kind of spirit seemed to run through every single person I met here. Their desire to return to their homes, to return to normal again, to work again, and to show a tourist like me the hospitality and passion they had when I was last there was overwhelming and beautiful. To savor every piece of fish and vegetable, to meet each mother and child, to visit every town or village or home, it felt like saying a huge thank you at the same time.
When can I go back again??
JJ
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