Journeys in Japan - 2012/10/30 - Rivers run through it Beautiful Morioka

Oct. 30, Tue.
Rivers run through it Beautiful Morioka

Wanko soba

Gohyaku Rakan

Nanbu ironware

This edition of journeys in japan takes us to Morioka, a city blessed with mountains, rivers, trees,and architecture steeped in history.

Nakatsugawa River
The Nakatsugawa River runs through the heart of Morioka. With its rich natural landscape, people enjoy scenic walks along the expansive riverside trail. Salmon return to spawn every autumn and swans visit in winter.

Natayacho, Daiji Shimizu
Surrounded by rivers, there are many pristine wells in Morioka. Not only locals, but visitors also stop by to collect water.

Morioka Machinami Office
Tel: (+81) 19-624-2466
Address: 2-4-5 Honmachi-dori, Morioka City
http://www.machijuku.org/

Azumaya Soba Restaurant
This restaurant specializes in Morioka's famous, "wanko soba." The noodles are served in an entertaining style where a mouthful is poured into one bowl after another while empty bowls pile up. Since rice cultivation was once difficult in Morioka area, soba was the ultimate feast. A custom developed whereby multitudes of small portions were served so a guest would become easily sated. The noodles are served with condiments and side dishes.
Tel: (+81) 19-622-2252 Address: 1-8-3 Nakanohashi-dori, Morioka City
http://www.wankosoba-azumaya.co.jp/foreigner/english/index.html

Hoonji Temple, Gohyaku Rakan (500 statues of the disciples of Buddha)
This significant temple in the Teramachi district houses an impressive collection of Buddhist statues. The five-hundred figures were created by Kyoto sculptors over a four year period from 1731.
Tel: (+81) 19-651-4415 Address: 31-15 Nasukawacho, Morioka City
http://www.odette.or.jp/citykankou/ka_c_me_go_i/ka_c_me_go_i.html

Local specialty pub Nanbu Doburokuya
Its interior-designed in the Tohoku region's magariya style-sends visitors back in time. Unfiltered sake, called doburoku, is the house specialty as well as local Iwate dishes.
Tel: (+81) 19-622-9212 Address: 2-6-21 Odori, Morioka City
http://www.vijp.com/doburokuya/

Nanbu Ironware Suzuki Morihisa Store and Workshop
The Nanbu clan, who built Morioka Castle in the Edo Period, cultivated Nanbu ironware and advanced cultural development. Suzuki Morihisa (trade name) is a venerable workshop in the city. All products are handmade over three months. At present, there is a two-year waiting list for placing an order.
Tel: (+81) 19-622-3809 Address: 1-6-7 Minami Odori, Morioka City
http://www.suzukimorihisa.com/htdocs_e/home.html

Riverside café "Fukakusa"
There are wonderful wine bars and cafes strung along the Nakatsugawa riverside for taking in the landscape.
Tel: (+81) 19-622-2352 Address: 1-2 Konyacho, Morioka City

Mikoda morning market
The market is open from four o'clock in the morning, 300 days a year. Produce, sold directly by producers, is always fresh and in season.
Tel: (+81) 19-652-1721 Address: 20-3 Mikoda-cho, Morioka City
http://www.morioka.jp/mikoda/
Access Map

Access:
Morioka is about 2.5 hours from Tokyo by bullet train
Date :
Oct. 2 - Oct. 8, 2012
Traveler :
William Reed, Columnist (USA)
Despite having lived most of the past four decades in Japan, this was my first trip to Morioka. I discovered since that many Japanese friends have also never been to Morioka, making it one of Japan's best kept secrets. If you are looking for a quick getaway from Tokyo, or would like to explore a castle town considered to be the Kyoto of the North, and surrounded by beautiful mountains, then Morioka is the place to go.

The city offers glimpses into what Japan was like 400 years ago at the beginning of the Edo Period, when the Nanbu Clan established its domain in Morioka, not just in terms of temples and traditional architecture, but also in its living traditions. It was a rare privilege to meet the 15th-generation head of the Nanbu Tekki Craft, beautiful ironware tea pots and utensils which seem to breathe with soft seasonal designs and shapes, and to enjoy a tea ceremony served with the same.

Stepping into the Hall of 500 Buddhist Saints at Houonji, you see faces that were carved 400 years ago, but still seem ready to burst into laughter or conversation. Perhaps the Kyoto craftsmen who were commissioned to carve them created likenesses of the people living in Morioka at the time, which we are privileged to enjoy in a moment of time travel.

And these moments of tranquility were interspersed with dynamic entertainment with some of the best seasonal food that I have ever tasted. This was particularly enjoyable having visited the farmer's market the same morning. There were many memorable food moments, such as drinking doburoku sake, deliciously served in tea bowls in its original unfiltered milky state, and complemented by fresh mountain mushrooms. If you lived in Morioka, that could easily become a regular ritual. But the wildest experience was meeting the challenge of successfully gulfing down 175 bowls of wanko soba, 3.5 times the average serving for a male customer, and surpassing the 125 bowls downed by the American hot dog eating champion, who had also visited the Azumaya Wanko Soba restaurant in Morioka.

The most relaxing part of the journey was the easy access to nature, whether enjoying the sunrise view of Mt. Iwate from an apple orchard, or taking walks along the Nakatsugawa River that runs through the city. Enjoying the diversity in the styles of bridges, and in search of salmon which had come home after four years to spawn in the city where they were born.

One of the bridges is known as the Bridge of Tears. From its beginnings Morioka was considered so remote, that anyone posted there by work or duty was likely to cry on arrival in a place so removed from wherever they called home. And yet when their tour of duty was over, they once again cry on departure at having to leave a place where the winters are so cold, and the hearts so warm. The city is filled with stories like this, which give you a sense for the magic attraction of Morioka.

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