Mapping Kyoto Streets - 2012/11/14 - Kurama-kaido

Nov. 14, Wed.
Kurama-kaido

Map

Unlike other streets featured on the program, in this episode we look at a street that runs north from central Kyoto all the way to the Japan Sea. Stretching 72 km from Kyoto to Obama in Fukui Prefecture, Kurama-kaido is Kyoto's main link to the sea. It has played an important role since ancient times transporting seafood and goods to the landlocked capital.

We start our trip at Kuramaguchi, the origin, and travel the first 12 kilometers to Kurama-dera, from which the road gets its name.

Presenter
Hiroki Sato
Radio Personality, Alfa Station, Kyoto

Born in Hokkaido, Sato has lived in Kyoto for 37 years. While enrolled in the Department of British and American Studies at Kyoto University of Foreign Studies, he took leave to work at the Japanese Embassy in Kenya. On graduating, Sato taught English before becoming a radio personality for the Alpha Morning Kyoto show at FM Kyoto (Alfa Station).
Presenter

MAPPING Kurama-kaido

Map

Izumoji Kuramaguchi
Moritanouen Oideyasu
Kakukame
Jozen-ji
Eizen Railways Nikenchaya Station
Kurama Station
Kurama Tsujii
Takizawa House
Yoshuji
Kurama-dera
Kifune Jinja
The Matsumoto Household
Yuki Jinja
Himatsuri

Izumoji Kuramaguchi
This stone monument engraved with "Izumoji Kuramaguchi" marks the starting point of Karuma-kaido. We begin our trip by crossing Izumojibashi bridge beside this monument, which stands near Subway Kuramaguchi Station on the Karasuma Line.

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Moritanouen Oideyasu
Miki Morita, aged 88, sells Kyoto vegetables at her shop, Oideyasu. Kyoto vegetables are traditional vegetables that have been cultivated in Kyoto for over 130 years. The fields nearby are farmed by Morita's son, who holds the "First Class Kyoto Vegetable Meister" certification. Kyoto has a bountiful underground water source and many rivers. The Kamo River, which flows nearby Morita's field, and the fertile soil are a perfect combination for delicious vegetables.

http://www15.plala.or.jp/puremorita/index.html

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Kakukame
Kakukame sells a wide variety of gamaguchi purses that can be used as glass cases and smartphone cases. Each is handmade. Kakukame holds popular workshops on weekends for people to create their own gamaguchi using their choice of cloth. (Reservations are required.)

http://homepage2.nifty.com/kakukame/

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Jozen-ji
The Kurama-guchi jizo bodhisattva statue once stood by the swamp beside Kurama-kaido. Today, it stands on the grounds of Jozen-ji, nearby. This is one of six jizo statues carved from a single enormous cherry tree. One is located at the entrance of each kaido, or road, that links Kyoto to other regions, as a guardian. Collectively, they are seen as the spiritual border of central Kyoto. Every August, the locals visit each of the six jizo statues on a pilgrimage to pray for peace and prosperity in their homes.

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Eizen Railways Nikenchaya Station
Kurama is about 10 minutes by train from Nikenchaya Station. The timetable for the special Kirara train changes depending on the season. Ten trains daily run in the fall. In the spring and summer, the stretch between Ichihara and Ninose stations is a tunnel of green; in fall, a tunnel of flaming red.

http://eizandensha.co.jp/densya/daiya/timetable.htm

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Kurama Station
The legend of the mythical tengu has been long associated with Kurama. On arrival at Kurama Station, you are greeted by a huge, red-faced, long-nosed tengu mask. The souvenir shops sell tengu masks of all shapes and sizes. The tengu is said to create gusts of winds on the mountain. A hero in Japanese history, Minamoto-no-yoshitsune is said to have learnt swordsmanship from a tengu while he lived here as a child.

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Kurama Tsujii
This shop sells kinome-daki that Yoshitsune was said to always have hanging from his belt. This condiment is made by boiling kelp, which is harvested in the Japan Sea, and mountain pepper, which grows in abundance in Kurama, in soy sauce for about six hours. It has a long life, so it makes a good gift.

http://www.kuramatsujii.jp

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Takizawa House
Along Kurama-kaido is a historical, environmentally friendly house that is open to the public. Look up to the ceiling when you walk into the main part of the house and you will see an opening between the beams. Called a manekiyane, the roof ventilates the house and prevents bugs from infesting it. This gap ensures the interior is cool even on the hottest days of summer, without the need for air conditioning. With polished posts and floors, the house is testimony to the ancient wisdom of treasured belongings.

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Yoshuji
This restaurant specializing in shojin-ryori stands near Kurama-dera's main gate. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Kyoto was not supplied with as much fish and meat as one might imagine, so the locals honed their culinary skills in shojin-ryori - Buddhist vegetarian cuisine - to create delicious vegetable dishes. Their autumn delicacy, Matsutake-no-dobinmushi - matsutake mushrooms steam-boiled in an earthenware pot - is highly recommended.

http://www.yoshuji.com

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Kurama-dera
Worshippers over the centuries have venerated Kurama-dera as the temple that protects Kyoto from the north. They must ascend mountain paths and steep stairs to reach its main hall located on Mt. Kurama's peak, where legend of the tengu remains. The path from the main hall to the inner sanctuary deeper into the mountain is where Yoshitsune is said to have received his sword lessons from the tengu. Feel the connection with Yoshitsune along this trail lined with gloomy and overgrown trees; the way is dim even in broad daylight.

http://kuramadera.com

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Kifune Jinja
This shrine is located near the source of the Kamo River that flows through central Kyoto, so people have worshipped the enshrined deity as the god of water since ancient times. In recent years, the deity has also become known as the god of love and happiness, so many women and couples worship at Kifune Jinja.

http://kibune.jp/jinja/

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The Matsumoto Household
In the lead up to Himatsuri, the Matsumotos, both born and bred in Kurama, are busy with preparations for the sabasushi, or mackerel sushi, they will distribute to their relatives and neighbors during the festival. They order special Japanese mackerel months in advance to make this delicious sushi.

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Yuki Jinja
Yuki Jinja lies along the approach to Kurama-dera. This small shrine holds the definitive Kurama-kaido festival, Himatsuri fire festival, every October 22nd.

http://www.yukijinjya.jp

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Himatsuri
A parade of bonfires lit the way when Yuki Jinja was moved from central Kyoto to Kurama in prayer for world peace, approximately 1,000 years ago. Himatsuri is held annually in commemoration.

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