Journeys in Japan - 2012/10/02 - Japan's Traditional Blue Tokushima's Indigo

Oct. 2, Tue.
Japan's Traditional Blue Tokushima's Indigo

Aizome dyeing

Awa Ningyo Joruri

Fireworks on the Yoshino River

On this edition of journeys in japan we visit Tokushima, the home of aizome indigo dye. Aizome is made from the indigo plant. The majority of domestic indigo plant production is based in Tokushima Prefecture. The traditional skills for producing indigo dye have been passed down here for generations by master dyers. The indigo dye industry was prosperous, and the arts flourished. The Awa Ningyo Joruri puppet theater, which has been designated as a significant intangible folk cultural asset, is one of them. Our reporter Deborah from Malaysia explores the traditional arts and crafts of Tokushima.

Hon-aizome Yano Factory aizome experience
Place: Aizumi-cho, Itano-gun, Tokushima Prefecture
Fee: 1,000 yen /handkerchief~
Time required: Approximately 2 hours
(*Minimum 1 week advance booking required)
http://yanokozyo.com/ (Japanese only)

Old townscape of Wakimachi - the historical trading place of indigo dye
Place: Wakimachi, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture
Trains: Take the JR line from Tokushima Station to Anabuki Station (40 minutes on the express train)
http://www.city.mima.lg.jp/4/64/000251.html (Japanese only)

Ai Yashiki Okumura shop (indigo-dyed goods)
Place: Wakimachi, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture
Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (to 4:30 p.m. in winter)
Closed on: Irregular
(*Their main store is adjacent to "Ai no Yakata" in Aizumi-cho)
http://aizome-tokushima.jp/ (Japanese only)

Ai no Yakata (House of Indigo) offers information on indigo production and aizome history
Place: Aizumi-cho, Itano-gun, Tokushima Prefecture
Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Closed on: Tuesdays (unless it falls on a national holiday), and December 28 to January 1
Entrance fee: 300 yen /adult, 200 yen /junior high school student, and 150 yen /elementary school student
http://www.awanavi.jp/english/e-35.html
http://www.town.aizumi.tokushima.jp/kanko/ainoyakata/ (Japanese only)

Jurobe Yashiki offers Awa Ningyo Joruri puppet performances every day
Place: Kawauchi-cho, Tokushima City
Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (to 6:00 p.m. from July 1 to August 31)
Entrance fee: 400 yen /adult, 300 yen /high school and university student, and 200 yen /elementary school student

Awa Ningyo Joruri performances: Twice daily (11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.), and three times a day from August 11 to 16 (11:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m., and 3:30 p.m.)
(*Included in entrance fee)
http://www.awanavi.jp/english/hc-06.html
http://joruri.info/jurobe/ (Japanese only)
Access Map

Access:
It takes an hour and 15 minutes by plane from Tokyo to Tokushima. Wakimachi, which retains its old townscape, is about an hour from the airport by train.
Date :
Jul. 26 - Jul. 30, 2012
Traveler :
Deborah Ten, Student (Malaysia)
This was my first time to Shikoku island, let alone Tokushima, which I had known next to nothing about other than it being frequented by typhoons at a certain time of the year. Exiting the small, but modern Tokushima Awa-odori airport, I was welcomed by quiet scenery of plains and blue sky stretching far into the horizon. The train, which takes you to the bustling city center across paddy fields and hills, is actually not your usual densha, but kisha, as I was later told by locals. Kisha are trains that run on diesel. Who would have thought a high-tech nation like Japan still had locomotives like those chugging along the countryside!

As the plains gave way to mountains and forests, I passed by Yoshino-gawa, a river so wide and gentle. I discovered, later in my journey, about how important the river was for the locals and how they cleverly utilised and protected it for centuries. Speaking of people, I noticed they spoke differently with a Tokushima accent, which I found rather warm and charming. This was also reflected in their attitude towards strangers. For example Mrs. Yano at the indigo-dye workshop, generously lent me her beautiful yukata to wear, which I am sure was very precious to her, and Mr. Yano, who patiently demonstrated the entire process of hon aizome during my visit.

Then there was the incredibly young-at-heart puppet maker, Mr. Tada. If you have at least an intermediate knowledge of the Japanese language, I'm sure you'll find his frequent shows at the museum very amusing. He introduces his crafts in an entertaining manner, with silly cackles and naughty jokes. He was also eager to show me his workshop, above the museum, which showcased his and his predecessors' works of art. It was an honour being able to see so much of ningyo joruri, a tradition of which the people of Tokushima were so proud of. I was especially intrigued by the body and facial expressions that were different from both male and female puppets in the Japanese context.

Back to the topic of friendly people, I remember the ladies at the neighbourhood beauty salon. They were so nice, lending me the store's cosmetics while helping me get dressed with Mrs. Yano's yukata. Within no time I was decked out in a yukata, uchiwa, geta, plus an elegant hair-do and ready to go down the river for some fireworks. All that was missing was perhaps a can of beer and some yakitori to complete this Japanese summer experience (laughs). The fireworks by Yoshino-gawa were amazing, albeit smaller in scale compared to the annual displays in the Kanto region. Nevertheless I enjoyed every second of it - relaxing on the river bank where the breeze was warm and gentle under the brightly lit night sky.

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