Journeys in Japan - 2012/08/28 - Vibrant colors, ancient tradition - Kanazawa

Aug. 28, Tue.
Vibrant colors, ancient tradition - Kanazawa

Yukata

Kutani beetle

Tokuda Yasokichi IV's work

For over 350 years, the city of Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, has been renowned as a center for traditional culture. It has a number of scenic districts where the classic architecture has been preserved since the old days.

On this edition of journeys in japan, Rosa Yum visits the city and attends an annual event, Kanazawa Touryoue, that showcases the local craftsmanship and cuisine. One of the representative crafts of this region is Kutani-yaki, a style of pottery known for its vibrant colors.

Kanazawa City Tourist Association
http://www.kanazawa-tourism.com/
(available in 6 languages, including English).

Kanazawa Touryoue
This annual summer event is held to showcase Kanazawa's traditional culture - including cuisine, craftsmanship and performing arts - against the backdrop of this historic city. It was first held in 2009.
http://touryoue.jp/

Kutani-yaki Shiryo-kan
The Kutani-yaki Shiryo-kan is a specialized museum that holds exhibitions and provides detailed information about Kutani-yaki pottery. It exhibits many pieces dating from the Edo Period. It also has an attached studio where visitors can try their hand at pottery making, throwing the clay on the wheel and applying the colored glazes.
Access: About 20 minutes by car from Komatsu Airport, or about 50 minutes from Kanazawa Railway Station
Address: 56 Izumidai-machi Minami, Nomi-shi, Ishikawa Prefecture
http://www.kutaniyaki.or.jp/ (in Japanese only)

D.T. Suzuki Museum
Daisetz Suzuki was a prominent Buddhist philosopher from Kanazawa, who played a major role in introducing Zen Buddhism from Japan to other countries. The D.T. Suzuki Museum was built to provide deeper understanding of Suzuki's thinking and achievements, while giving visitors a space for self-reflection. Designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi, the building is a beautiful representation of Suzuki's ideas in architectural form.
Open: 9:30 - 17:00
Admission: 300 yen; 200 yen for senior citizens (65 or over); free for children and students through high school
http://www.kanazawa-museum.jp/daisetz/english/index.html (English site)

Otomoro
This traditional restaurant founded in 1830 is an excellent place to enjoy traditional Kaga (Ishikawa) cuisine.
Address: Oyama-machi 2-27, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture
Open: 9:00 - 21:00
http://ootomorou.ekiben.or.jp/ (Japanese only)

Kutani Insect Project
A ceramic insect decorated with various Kutani-yaki coloring techniques.
http://www.kutanijuku.com/ (Japanese only)

Kaga Yuzen yukata for rent
Kaga Yuzen is the Kanazawa-style kimono dyed in the five basic colors known as Kaga Gosai - indigo blue, dark red, grass green, yellow ocher and ancient purple. Visit the Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industry Center if you are interested in wearing beautiful kimono or yukata.
Address: Kosho-machi 8-8, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture
Open: 9:00 - 17:00
Closed: Wednesday
Rental fees: Kaga Yuzen yukata - 4,500 yen per overnight, Kaga Yuzen kimono - 4,500 yen for 1 hour, 6,000 yen for 3 hours

For English explanation of Kaga Yuzen, please access the English HP of Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industry Center:
http://www.kagayuzen.or.jp/english.html


Traveler: Rosa Yum

Before having the opportunity to visit Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, I knew nothing about that area. I never heard of Kutaniyaki or Kaga Cuisine. I had never worn a yukata, never attended a tea ceremony, and never saw real Geikos perform. This trip changed all that and more.

I used to think that porcelain/ceramic works of art were a bit dated. Meeting Tokuda Yasokichi IV (the heir to the famous Kutaniyaki artist Tokuda Yasokichi III) was all I needed to form a different opinion. I learned that just because you inherit the family secret to an ancient coloring technique doesn't mean your designs are outdated. Spending time with the fourth was such a pleasure, She shared how she took on her father's name to continue the family tradition and how as a single woman, she is fighting to stand on her own feet in a male dominant world, all while drawing strength from her roots.

Walking along the tea and sweets stores along Higashi Chayagais in a yukata (an informal kimono worn in the summer) gave me a taste of how life might have been a hundred years ago. It was breathtaking to watch the sunset along the river next to Kazuemachi Chayagai. I saw how Kaga cuisine tries to incorporate the changing seasons of Kanazawa into each meal and how ceramic wares are used in the meal displays. My visit to Kanazawa was a wonderful experience and it certainly has changed how I see the ceramic wares I use at home!

Access:
About 1 hour from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to Komatsu Airport.
About 40 minutes' ride on an expressway bus from Komatsu Airport to Kanazawa City.

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