Journeys in Japan - 2013/01/08 - Exploring Yatsugatake's Nature and Jomon Legacy

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Jan. 8, Tue.
Exploring Yatsugatake's Nature and Jomon Legacy

Yatsugatake

Clay figurine

Earthenware vessel

On this edition of "journeys in japan" we visit the southwestern foot of Yatsugatake, a chain of mountains extending 30 kilometers from north to south on the border of Nagano and Yamanashi Prefectures. About 5,000 years ago, a prehistoric culture known as the Jomon flourished around the lower slopes. Remnants of the Jomon have been discovered at more than 300 sites in the area.
Our reporter Peter MacMillan meets residents of mountainous communities, discovers their way of life, and traces the footsteps of the Jomon people hidden behind it. At museums adjacent to excavation sites, he marvels at the artistic quality of objects created by the Jomon people, such as clay figurines and earthenware vessels. He also treks through the Kirigamine plateau to reach its highest point-Kurumayama (1625m), enjoying the beautiful natural scenery on the way. Researchers believe the Jomon people visited the plateau frequently.

Oshimizu
The spring known as Oshimizu, in Yonezawa, Chino City, is believed to have provided water since ancient times. The lush forest surrounding the spring has a mystical atmosphere. Local people wash vegetables here, while others come long way to fetch the delicious water.
Address: Kitaoshio, Yonezawa, Chino City

Togariishi Jomon Archaeological Museum
Located next to the Togariishi archaeological site, this museum exhibits artifacts from the Jomon period such as earthenware vessels, clay figurines, and tools. The museum's highlight is two clay dolls: "Jomon Venus," which is designated a national treasure, and "Masked Goddess," an important cultural asset. These are considered to be the finest examples of Jomon clay figurines.
Admission: 500 yen
Address: 4734-132, Toyohira, Chino City
Tel: (+81) 266-76-2270
www.city.chino.lg.jp/ctg/07050020/07050020.html

Idojiri Archaeological Museum
The museum is adjacent to the Idojiri site, another major archaeological site in the area. Many decorative earthenware vessels excavated from nearby sites are on display.
Admission: 300 yen
Address: 7053, Sakai, Fujimi-machi, Nagano Prefecture
Tel: (+81) 266-64-2044
www.alles.or.jp/~fujimi/idojiri.html

Espoir restaurant
The restaurant serves French cuisine using ingredients sourced from the nearby mountains and rivers, as well as regional vegetables grown on the restaurant's own farm. From autumn to winter, the chef focuses on game dishes such as wild fowl, boar and deer.
Address: Tateshina Chuokogen, Kitayama, Chino City
Tel: (+81) 266-67-4250
www.auberge-espoir.com/

Kirigamine Plateau
The plateau, located at an elevation between 1,500 and 1,900 meters, is a popular tourist destination, with many marshlands as well as various flowers blooming in summer. The summit of the 1,925 meter high Kurumayama offers superb views of the Japan Alps, Yatsugatake, and Mt. Fuji on a clear day.
Address: Kirigamine Kogen, Suwa City
More information is available at Suwa Kanko Kyokai (tourist association).
Tel: (+81) 266-52-2111
www.suwakanko.jp/nature/index.html

Other archaeological museums / archaeological park
Okaya Art and Archaeological Museum
Admission: 350 yen
Address: 4-1-39, Hon-cho, Okaya City, Nagano Prefecture
Tel: (+81) 266-22-5854

Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of Archaeology
Admission: 210 yen
Address: 923, Shimosone-cho, Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture
Tel: (+81) 55-266-3881

Kinsei Iseki Koen (archaeological park)
Admission: Free
Address: 2414, Yato, Oizumi-cho, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture
Tel: (+81) 551-20-5505
Access Map

Access:
From Tokyo to Yatsugatake area, it takes about two hours from Shinjuku by a limited express train on the JR Chuo Line. JR Chino station is the closest point to the places we visited.
Date :
Nov. 19 - Nov. 21, 2012
Traveler :
Peter MacMillan, writer & artist (Ireland)
Before visiting Yatsugatake I had no idea of the wonder and beauty of Jomon culture.
It was simply a word to me that evoked a culture of the distant past. But after my visit to the many sites and museums I realized that Jomon culture is an extraordinary treasure.

During the trip we could come to understand how the ancient people of Japan lived and their rich aesthetic sense, their extraordinary ceramic tradition, and also get a sense of their extraordinary and comprehensive world-view. The Jomon people clearly developed a highly sustainable way of life that lasted some 10,000 years that involved a richly developed sense of spirituality. I was deeply moved by my personal discovery of the beauty of this culture and it changed forever the way I look upon Japan.

By going on mushroom gathering trips, walking in the autumn forests full of nuts and then partaking of the wonders of the local game, I could see how the traditions of ancient times are carried on into the current age in Japan's countryside. My favorite episode was visiting the ladies who washed nozawana in the local spring and then joining them for tea and the home-made Japanese pickles (tsukemono).
The most moving thing that anyone said to me was the archeologist who was digging up for relics of the Jomon period. He told me that his goal was to dig as little as possible to leave the relics safe for future generations that might develop better ways to unearth these treasures. What humility!

When in Japan do visit Yatsugatake and other of the wonderful sites associated with the Jomon period.

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