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Jan. 22, Tue.
Winter Bliss in Takayama
Sake, Japanese rice wine
Morning market
Hida mountains
Our destination is Takayama City in Gifu Prefecture. Our reporter Charles Glover discovers the city's traditions by sightseeing on foot. The popular tourist destination is also a major production center of Japanese rice wine, called sake. Its many local breweries have succeeded in creating premium sake thanks to fine climate, water and rice. Charles visits a brewery to observe a stage of sake production.
Area preserving the old townscape
Central Takayama is a popular tourist spot, attracting some 3 million visitors a year from home and abroad. Visitors delight in the traditional townscape. The city has preserved merchant shops and private homes from before the late 19th century.
Morning Market
Long-running market is open daily. Local farmers bring in freshly harvested fruits and vegetables.
http://www.hida.jp/english/activities/sightseeing-information/morning-market
Sake Breweries
Takayama's sake enjoys a reputation for excellent flavor and aroma. Several breweries are concentrated in a small, traditional district of the city. They've long competed against each other to produce improved flavors. Each now has its distinctive style.
-Harada Sake Brewery
Sannomachi10, Takayama city
Tel: (+81) 577-32-0120
http://www.sansya.co.jp/ (in Japanese only)
-Funasaka Sake Brewery
Sannomachi105, Takayama city
Tel: (+81) 577-32-0016
http://www.funasaka-shuzo.co.jp/ (in Japanese only)
A tour around sake breweries
Six of the seven breweries are open to the public from January 17th to January 27th, 2013. Visitors can taste sake fresh out of the tanks.
http://www.hida.jp/fuyunotabi/sakagurameguri.htm (in Japanese only)
Okuhida Hot Spring Village
Okuhida is one of Japan's major hot spring resorts. Five springs feed about 120 rotemburo, open-air baths. Many of the baths are popular for their rustic simplicity.
http://www.hida.jp/english/activities/area-attractions/okuhida-hot-spring-village
-Hot Spring Inn Yarimikan
Kansaka, Okuhida Hot Spring Village, Takayama city
Tel: (+81) 578-89-2808
http://www.yarimikan.com/english.html
-Hot Spring Inn Shinzanso
Tel: (+81) 578-89-2031
http://shinzansou.com/ (in Japanese only)
Restaurant Nonohana Sanso
This upscale establishment features an open kitchen and original cuisine with Western and Japanese influences. It also proudly uses locally sourced ingredients and Hida wagyu beef. Reservations necessary.
Tel: (+81) 578-89-0030
http://nono87.jp/ (in Japanese only)
Shinhotaka Ropeway
It takes just over 10 minutes to reach the observatory at 2,156 meters above sea level where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the 3,000 meter peaks of the Northern Japan Alps.
http://www.okuhi.jp/Rop/english.pdf
Access Map
Access:
To reach Takayama from Tokyo, it takes about 4 hours on the Shinkansen bullet train with transfer to an express line, or about 5 hours on an expressway bus. It is about 1 hour by bus from central Takayama to the Okuhida hot spring village.
Date :
Dec. 6 - Dec. 13, 2012
Traveler :
Charles Glover, actor (USA)
I have been in Japan fair amount of time and like to think that I know, eh, a fair amount about Japan but I must confess that I knew very little about Takayama before going. It was a treat to truly learn and explore the unique culture, culinary and natural beauty of Takayama.
Located north of Nagoya in Gifu prefecture, a trip to Takayama is like a trip back in time in many ways. At one time it was THE place to travel to and more than likely helped it gain the title of "little Kyoto", an apt moniker, as one feels a certain echo of Kyoto in its streets. However it certainly has a charm and flavor all its own, that are particularly vivid if you enjoy it in winter. It is chilly to be sure but it makes the local, sauted miso that much more delicious, the locally brewed sake that much more tasty and the traditional Japanese bridges, covered with snow that much more beautiful.
Did I mention sake? Well! If you are a sake fan, you cannot beat Takayama as there are 7 breweries preserving their own unique tradition and rich tasting sake. I was lucky enough to see the actual process of making sake. I found out that before entering the brewing area, I was not supposed to have eaten yoghurt or natto, as it might affect the delicate fermentation process. The way sake is brewed was fascinating and the samples were wonderful. Some of the breweries are situated in the fascinating Sanmachi area, which is almost like a movie set of an Edo era town but a living breathing part of the city, distinct with its low buildings and dark, chocolate brown colored buildings.
I was also struck by the unique cuisine of the area. A great way to enjoy the local character and my beloved "tsuke-mono", pickeled vegetables, was at the daily asa-ichi, or morning market. Even though it is held daily, the local vendors seemed happy to be there and to chat. There is a satisfying feeling buying tsuke-mono from the person who actually made it. What also struck me about the area is that it seems many people make their own, yet another echo from the past. The marquee dish of the area is Hooba Miso, a unique entrée consisting of grilling miso with vegetables such as onion and mushroom on a large leaf. I learned that it is an old tradition that evolved from the need to eat hot food in winter when there was not much else, i.e. meat. Once again, another clear reverberation from the past, but clearly, a living custom.
In the north part of Takayama, the force of nature literally can be felt. I explored the "roof-top" of Japan, via the Shin Hotaka Ropeway. It was a treat to be able to enjoy awe inspiring views of a wide panorama of mountains of the Northern Japan Alps that had been freshly decorated with new fallen snow!
After catching a slight chill at the top of the ropeway, -13 ° C! the weather changed again and I was able to enjoy possibly my favorite thing in Japan, soaking in a warm rotemburo, open-air baths, under gently falling snow. It does not get much better.
Takayama is truly a treasure, particularly enjoyable in winter. You should take a look, enjoy the sites, tastes and feelings it has to offer. It is worth it!
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