Journeys in Japan - 2013/01/29 - Zen and the Samurai Spirit Kamakura

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Jan. 29, Tue.
Zen and the Samurai Spirit Kamakura

Kamakura

Engaku-ji

Kyudo

The city of Kamakura lies just south of Tokyo. From around 800 years ago, it was the capital of the samurai generals who ruled Japan.

During that period, Zen Buddhism was introduced to Japan by priests from China. The philosophy and meditation practices of Zen were embraced by the samurai warriors, and many temples were built among the hills of Kamakura. This gave rise to the distinctive culture that can still be found in the city to this day.

Just a few steps away from Kamakura's main street, you find yourself in narrow alleys where you can still feel traces of the city's past. Because of its long history and culture, Kamakura has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Rosa Yum explores Kamakura when the autumn foliage is at its most beautiful, and visits several of the ancient religious sites in the city. She is shown how to practice Zen meditation and is introduced to shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine served in the temples. She also observes kyudo, a spiritual practice based on the same kind of bows and arrows that were used by the samurai warriors.
Nagoe no Kiridoshi
Kamakura is surrounded on three sides by hills, with the sea to the south. In the old days, there were seven entrances to Kamakura: known as kiridoshi, these paths were just wide enough for one horse to pass through at a time. These defenses were carved through the rocky hillside by stone-workers brought from all over the country. The entrance in the southeast of the city was called Nagoe no Kiridoshi.

Mandara-do
Located close to the Nagoe no Kiridoshi, Mandara-do is an area where around 150 chambers (known as yagura) were carved into the rock, as tombs for priests and samurai warriors. This site dates from the second half of the 13th century.
Open to the public only occasionally, such as during the Golden Week holiday (late April and early May) or in autumn.
Contact: Zushi Film Commission
Tel: (+81) 468-73-1084

Kencho-ji
Kencho-ji, founded in 1253, is the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism and is ranked first of Kamakura's Five Great Zen Temples. A hiking trail runs through the hills behind this temple toward Zuisen-ji, offering views of Mount Fuji.
The temple is open to the general public for early morning meditation and other Zen training sessions.
Tel: (+81) 467-22-0981
http://www.kenchoji.com/

Engaku-ji
Founded in 1282, Engaku-ji is the second of Kamakura's Five Great Zen Temples. Located right by JR Kita-Kamakura station, there are many structures in the temple complex. One of them, a reliquary hall known as Shari-den, is the only structure in Kamakura designated as a national treasure (closed to the public).
The temple is open to the public for early morning meditation and other Zen practice.
Tel: (+81) 467-22-0478
http://www.engakuji.or.jp/

Zuisen-ji
This temple was established by the Zen priest Muso Kokushi. It is said to have the best view in all of Kamakura. It is known for its rock garden, carved out of the cliff face behind the main temple. In ancient times, people used to meditate in yagura, chambers cut into the rock. The hill behind the temple is closed to the public, but it is adjacent to the hiking trail from Kencho-ji.
Tel: (+81) 467-22-1191
http://www.kamakura-zuisenji.or.jp/

Meigetsu-in
Founded in 1160, Meigetsu-in is a beautiful temple famous for its hydrangea garden. There are more than 2,000 hydrangea shrubs inside the temple grounds, which blooms in mid-June. It is also popular for other seasonal flowers, such as irises, and its autumn foliage.
Tel: (+81) 467-24-3437

Komyo-ji
This Jodo Buddhist temple was founded in 1125. It is located very close to Zaimokuza Beach and is famous for its rock garden and lotus pond. Visitors can try a contemporary version of the traditional vegetarian shojin-ryori cuisine eaten by Buddhist priests since the days of the samurai. (Reservations required.)
Tel: (+81) 467-22-0603
http://park16.wakwak.com/~komyo-ji/

Kyudo
Kyudo practice sessions can be observed at Keisho-an, inside the compound of Engaku-ji Temple. Although it is open for public viewing, visitors are not able to participate.
Tel: (+81) 467-25-5424

Transportation
Enoshima Electric Railway (Enoshima Dentetsu or "Enoden" for short) is a local railway that runs from Kamakura to Fujisawa. The line runs along the coast and is convenient for visiting temples in the west of the city.

Access:
From Tokyo, it takes about one hour by train (JR Yokosuka Line).
Date :
Nov.26-Nov.28, Dec. 9 2012
Traveler :
Traveler: Rosa Yum, Reporter (USA)
I've been to Kamakura a few times before, but I never knew the history of this town. I thought it was a place where city people went for surfing and barbecues or to escape the city for the weekend. It's not too far, about an hour from Tokyo Station by train, and it's not too expensive to get to, so many people make it a one-day trip.

I was surprised to learn that the samurai leaders made this place their capital in the 12th century. They made many defenses in the hills around Kamakura to stop invasions, such as cutting passages only wide enough for one horse to pass at a time. I also found a very old cemetery nearby.

I visited during the peak season for the autumn foliage. It was spectacular to see the leaves illuminated at night. At a temple called Hase-dera, large spotlights were shined onto the trees to highlight the red, yellow and orange foliage. People came from all over Japan, taking photos and enjoying the beauty of nature.

I had a chance to eat shojin-ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine at one of the temples in Kamakura. Many of the dishes featured soybeans and nuts but, like most Japanese cuisine, the ingredients in the dishes change with the seasons. And guess what: it was mouthwatering. Each dish had its own flavor, and the salt, sugar and soy sauce were used sparingly. I would love to return and have another round of shojin-ryori. For those who think that vegetarian cuisine is only tofu burgers and salads, think again!

The highlight of my visit was exploring Kamakura by rickshaw. I got to see the narrow backstreets and all the local shrines. There are stores selling candies and other snacks, and neighbors call out to the rickshaws as they pass by. I was able to see the old parts of the city as well as the buildings that are newer.

I am looking forward to my next trip to Kamakura, to see how different it looks in spring!

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